Anime Baka

Anime - Japanese Animation
Baka - Japanese word for idiot or fool

Loosely put an Anime Baka is someone who's crazy about Anime. However interpretation's may vary. I tend to think of Anime Baka as meaning something like drooling fan boy/girl.


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Wrote this a long time ago. Too short for an article:
Perverted - Hentai in Japanese. But the word pervert means deviation from normal or accepted. So, how can all guys be perverts?

Did you ever notice that the sex scene in the movie is generally at about the same realative place as the guitar solo in a song?




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Computer Radio Project Notes
This is going to be my first computer radio project. The ship in question is large and will have ample room for the electronics.

Parts Needed
(2) Arduino's Perhaps Arduino Fio ($25ea) to save costs and space:
http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=9712
or Arduino Duemilanove:
http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=666
With the Duemilanove I will also need 2 xbee shields ($10):
http://www.ladyada.net/make/xbee/arduino.html


(1) FTDI Cable ($18) to program Arduino Fio (standard USB programs regular):
http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=9717


(2) Xbees with wire antenna for better range 800' outdoors ($22ea)
This is the standard wire antenna xbee
http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=8665
This is the one with a U.FL Connection
http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=8666
It needs an adapter and then will use any 2.4ghz antenna. The wire antenna is probably a lot simpler where the U.FL Connection will require additional components (U.FL to RP-SMA and RP-SMA antenna) and allow for mounting the antenna in the super structure for more range.

(1) Xbee Explorer USB ($25)
http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=8687
The dongle version is more attractive:
http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=9819


(1) SSC-32 Servo Controller ($40) This beast will control up to 32 servos very precisely via a serial link. It even has a RS-232 connector built in. I think to control it I will need to manually program another port as the main serial connection is used by the Xbee. http://www.lynxmotion.com/p-395-ssc-32-servo-controller.aspx


(2) VSD-22YMB ($40ea) Sail Winch Servos
Strike has these servos which will do 4 1/2 to 6 turns controlled. The sail winch servos I have are continuous rotation. I wonder if they were modified to do this and can be de-modified. I should disassemble one to check, but these would make good drop in replacements. http://www.strikemodels.com/products/servos/

Total setup $257.

This does not include any mounting hardware for the controller or receiver. Also it does not include any controls for the transmitter. I think I will hack an old transmitter for the joystick and use various pots and switches for the buttons.

Probable final cost $350.


The Arduino Fio seems exactly the same as the main Arduino but at 8MHz instead of 16MHz. I doubt this will make any difference for my purposes. 8 analog input pins, 14 digital I/O pins.

Here are some ideas for Arduino Control.

* Use direction and range for aiming of all guns. To truly do this I'll need four of the sail winch servos, but it should work pretty well with each bank horizontally aimed together. This is the base control.

* When rotated to the forward/aft positions top gun will automatically come to zero depression so as to clear the lower gun. Lower gun will raise enough to clear shooting the deck.

* When aiming at a target that all guns can not be brought to bear on, the non bearing guns will maintain closest positioning so as to be ready to be brought to bear if target enters their field of fire. Non bearing guns will not fire when firing switch is activated.

* When depression aiming for a particular gun can not be done due to tolerances, the gun will set depression at it's nearest to true setting and fire with the other guns.

* Alignment. Belt slippage is an issue under combat conditions. There should be some means of aligning the guns in combat. Pre-combat alignment would involve bringing the guns to control neutral and physically moving them to matching real neutral. Alignment during combat should bring the guns to neutral and allow them to be adjusted from the Tx. Perhaps an alignment button that would move guns to neutral and then while held down the individual gun pots would adjust the guns to zero. Then when the button is released the new offset is used for all future aiming. Easier and faster might be for the button to leave the guns where they are and apply any pot movements to the offsets, but this might be too confusing for combat. Perhaps the simplest solution is to manually set the guns to neutral, hold the align button and then adjust the guns to true neutral. I think that's the easiest. Also it would prevent accidental hits of the align button from bringing guns to neutral. Still the guns moving to neutral would be a visual indication that you are in alignment mode.

* Attach a GPS and receive current scale speed live from the ship. More elaborately have it return to the startup position at slow speed if radio communication is broken for more than a minute. Returning along initial path would be optimal. http://www.arduino.cc/playground/Tutorials/GPS

* Attach a digital compass sensor. This may help with complex automated maneuvers like "Return to Port".

* Attach one or more sensors that read water level within the hull. Tube with float would probably work pretty well, but I'm not sure how to read it.

* Water sensor in super structure or high hull detects sink. Disables guns and stops motors and pumps. After ten minutes activates re-float device. Possible backup reading from water level sensors to prevent splash error.

* Attached controlled lighting, port, starboard, search, etc.

* After firing controller receives fire report from Tx and dims LED for fired guns and activates vibrator until wait time expires. Then re lights LED for guns and stops vibrator. Fire controls not active on guns with dimmed LED(s). Looks like most small vibrator units require 100ma to function where the Arduino powers 40ma. So to avoid eventual meltdown, you'd wire a transistor that powers the vibrator when the aduino throws the switch.

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